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Monthly Archives: June 2010
Meditations on Phyllo
“Phyllo and anxiety go hand in hand, ” says S., as he plunges his fork into a bountiful piece of spanakopita. I am told by the other guests at our table that he is a very good cook, especially of … Continue reading
Posted in Breaking Bread, Meditations, Ordinary places
Tagged cooking phyllo, Grecian Festival, greek cuisine, MA, pastry, phyllo, spanakopita, Watertown
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Being Armenian at San Lazzaro Island, Venice
Every Armenian who sets foot in Venice knows that a visit to the San Lazzaro island is an obligation of national proportions. If you go to Venice and don’t make it to San Lazzaro, you have committed what amounts to … Continue reading
Posted in Armenians, Cities and towns
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The French Wink
Forget the seductive smile which is sometimes extracted from the teeth of contempt or, worse, politeness. Forget the touch of fingertips, which comes when you least expect it, as the waiter is returning small change.Forget the stroke of the hair or … Continue reading
Posted in Aging, well enough, Learning
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Unfinished, gentle Paris
These words from S., a dear, dear old friend of decades-beyond-count– about leaving Paris: “And go gently in peace, but leave something unfinished, for your return.” On my last day, to the cinema at Quai de Seine, to see The … Continue reading
Posted in Cinéphilia, Cities and towns
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Your favorite Truffaut scene
Dear Tamar, Today, I went to visit our dear friend Francois Truffaut at the Montmartre Cemetery. It was a beautiful Boston-like day, the wind rustling through the trees and between the grave stones. As I had promised you, I bought … Continue reading
Posted in Cinéphilia, Letters and dispatches, Those we Love
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Grotowski on the considered life…
By a strange coincidence, this morning, I happened on Jerzy Grotowski, here in Paris on a dreary day. In my youth, I had written a long study of the great Polish director, which was published in Beirut, in Armenian, … Continue reading
Posted in Aging, well enough
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The World Cup–in transit again
My last evening in Venice, and the weather is humid and hot. We are at the DuChamp outdoor cafe in one of the most lively squares, the Santa Margarita. Two television screens and scores of clients have the place to … Continue reading
Posted in Passages and Homes
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Life Slipping Away at Point Alberoni–and back
Point Alberoni, at the tip of the Venetian island of Lido, is the sort of place tourists don’t visit much. Even some Venetians have not been there. And at the very tip of Alberoni is a little shack at the … Continue reading
We grow old, we grow old…
By our last count, after dinner last night here in Cologne, we–my dear friend A.B. and I– had enjoyed each other’s company in eleven different towns and cities, across three continents–the US, Europe, and the Middle East–and during more than … Continue reading
In transit…
Gare du Nord, Paris The trek in mid-day from my apartment near the Canal to Gare du Nord is a sweet twenty minutes, the two carry-ons notwithstanding. Through the winding roads, I have made it to the large, bustling station; … Continue reading
Posted in Ordinary places, Passages and Homes
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